1828 Trapunto work stays

United States

c.1828. A pair of creme cotton stays most likely worn by a young lady. Soft stays of the early 19th century were not worn so much for a dramatic waist reduction but to give the body a long flowing line underneath the high waisted dresses of the era. Early 19th century stays lifted up the bustline and compressed the waist and hips into a narrower "tube" like shape so that a high waisted gown would fall unencumbered down from the high waistline.
Stays from the first part of the 19th century often had a wide, vertical center slot in which a long, straight busk made out of wood, ivory or whalebone (often highly decorated with cavings or poems) which could be inserted into the center slot for support. Busks were not always worn and could be removed easily according to your activity. Generally busks were worn for formal or evening functions and taken out for leisure.
This pair has trapunto work for support arranged in an attractive geometric pattern. Trapunto work was often used in Regency stays for figure support and decoration and was made by inserting length of wool as the channel was being sewn not like in later corsets were the bones are inserted into the bone casings after they are sewn. The stays are entirely handsewn with back stitching and have ivory grommets (called French holes) at the back for the lacing.
Measurements: Bust 28", Waist 22", Hips 26", Busk length 13 1/2".
From the collection of L. Hidic