Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Thursday, March 5, 2015

Homemade linen stays

c.1840-1860. A pair of homemade stays made from thick, homespun linen cloth and were most likely made and worn by a poorer or labouring class woman (like a farmer's wife).
They are old fashioned in shape, cut and style, more reminiscent of the Regency era than the Victorian era but this time lag is common in the poorer classes' clothing.
The front laces up which is a sign that the lady was of a poorer class and had no help to dress herself and there is a hidden button up pocket on the inside to perhaps conceal valuables or money? The stays have numerous repairs and patches, especially to the underarm area where the edge of the stays would have had continuous rubbing from use. The shoulder straps are a later addition or replacement, probably made in the 1860's as they are machine sewn but there is evidence that the stays did originally have shoulder straps as well.
The early construction and repairs of the corset are all done by hand but later additions and repairs are done with treadle machine stitches which shows that this pair must have been worn over a long period of time. They do not have any boning, but figure support is achieved with long long strips of linen all around the body. Decorative hand sewn zig zag stitches remain on some of the strips while on some of the strips a later attempt at sewing zig zag patterns by treadle machine is seen.
There is not a dramatic bust/waist/hip ratio on these stays as they would have been worn for support only. There is evidence, however, that the waist waist was taken in to 25" and then let out to 27" once again.
Measurements: Bust 32", Waist 27", Hips 32", length 13 1/2" (not including shoulder straps).

1860s short corset

c.1868- 1870. A light drab batiste shorter style corset of the later 1860's.
During the brief "Empire" line fashion of the late 1860's, corsets became shorter to reflect this passing fashion. According to C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, shorter length corsets remained popular until the mid 1870's when a longer corset was needed for the newly
fashionable cuirass bodice.
The corset does not have a extreme bust/waist ratio as later 19th century corsets would have as a full crinoline or crinolette supported skirt would have been worn which would have made the waist look smaller in comparison. It provides vert little hip support or reduction as this area of the body would have been camouflaged by a crinoline/crinolette. The main action of this short corset was to support the bust and give a slightly higher waistline typical of the later 1860's.
This corset is boned with cane and is not lined. The front fastens with a short, curved busk.
Measurements: Bust 31 1/2", Waist 24", Hips 31 1/2", Busk length 8 1/2".